Saturday, 18 July 2009

1761 Nottingham City

Wednesday July 15th became D H Lawrence day when I had gone to considerable lengths to plan Durham at Nottingham cricket day. However as I cannot remember when I wrote my last chronicle of activity or what is was about I shall write first about what I now remember of the days leading up to D H Lawrence Day, Friday July 17th became Durham may have won the championship for the second year in succession day and again I will write about this before my trip to London.

This may prove to be one the most important weeks of my life to-date, or is just could be an extraordinary week.

For once I do not care that I might repeat what has been written before, albeit in a different perspective, or miss out on what was considered to be of interest and importance of the moment.

I have previous written in draft that the visit to the childhood home of D H Lawrence Day became a day I shall remember for ever more, similar to the visit to Larne and the cottage home of the Welsh poet Dylan Thomas. Cricket days, even exceptional ones become blurred because there is no visual specific memory attached to the emotional. Now three days after writing the above I have several visual memories of a cricket day.

Tuesday in Nottingham was a bonus having arrived a day earlier than planned because of going to the last day of the Durham at Yorkshire Cricket day. But I believe I need to go back even further before I can continue with my encounter with D H Lawrence at his birthplace home in Eastwood in the County of Derbyshire.

I begin with Sunday when I had to rise early to make readiness for the arrival of the new washing machine, scheduled to be delivered between 9.30 and 1.30, for the old machine to be removed and the new one connected. In order to be ready I had taken up the surrounding floor, something which in fact I need not have done once I had lifted the worktop, but it was better to have been well prepared than to risk some excuse that about not being able to do the job as has been the situation with a delivery once before. My first task in the morning was to move the car outside and park to ensure that the giant delivery vehicle would be able to come down the back lane and then clear all other possible obstructions or kitchen items which could get in the way.

I decided to do a good watering and checking of the plants as this would be the last occasion for a week. I then cleared the small area of concrete of the dead flowers at the front of the house. I must find out the name of the plants which has managed to find small growing point all along the front of the house between the wall and the concrete floor and similarly against the front wall to the pavement. The flowers are small purple ones which spread in sprays up to a foot in length and spread and spread once established. I did not do a proper job but cleared the unsightly dying or dead sprays, promising I would do a proper hands and knees job when I returned from the two trips to be made in quick succession.

When the washing machine had not arrived by 1pm I phoned and was told it was on its way. The large truck arrived around 2pm and the old machine was disconnected and taken into the vehicle and the new one brought in, connected and checked all within 15 mins at the most. My only complaint is that I was not given sufficient time to properly clean the floor under the old machine. It was also evident that I had not needed to have removed the over floor I had laid which suck love care and which had required some skill. I know I have just said this before but it is worth repeating once more.

I paid a quick visit to the supermarket for rolls, milk, more salami and pastries. Perhaps I had acquired the extra salami before. I had watched the start of the German Grand Prix and the end. Then it was England’s fight to prevent Australia winning the first Test at Cardiff. I have been critical of Paul Collingwood both in relation to his contribution to Durham over the past three years and this year for England. However on Sunday he established himself as a living legend with his defensive innings while all the other batsmen failed. Panesar whose batting buddy is Collingwood played like an opening bat set on defensiveness and saw the match end in a draw to the ecstasy of the crowd who cheered loudly every ball he played. It was then time to prepared for the week ahead. I decided a dozen shirts half long sleeved such was the uncertainty of the weather. I would leave the buttering of rolls until the morning.

On Monday the journey to the Yorkshire cricket ground was much better all round and I arrived in good time and car parking space on the main road a few yards across from the entrance. Durham batted until lunch time making defeat not an option for them and setting Yorks to get 275 off runs in some 50 overs. There was never any prospect of the home side gaining the momentum to achieve this total as wickets commenced to fall with Ian Blackwell outstanding with only 23 runs conceded from 22 overs and taking two of the four wickets which fell, and Plunket the other two. The match ended in a draw although Durham came close to taking two more wickets despite the resolve of the Yorkshire batsmen. I thought that overall a draw was a fair outcome although with poor bonus points, Nottinghamshire with two games in hand remained in the driving seat for the championship although the points achieved gap favoured Durham. This made the contest at Nottingham even more significant although with a poor weather forecast another draw looked the likely outcome.

I did consider stopping for a hot meal on the way but decided to get on my way, going back to the ring road and then joining M1 extension going south. As I approached the service area at Nottingham the lightening had been a great flash illuminating the whole sky rather than shafts that had been experienced at the riverside two weeks before. The weather forecast had been better than this.

I decided to use the early part of Tuesday to begin an orientation of the routes into Nottingham from the motorway service area and across to Mansfield, Newark and Southwell. I also wanted to investigate the park and ride system in relation to the motorway, the city centre and the bus system.

I will report now the outcome of the explorations by car, tram and bus conducted over past three days, with the visit to the birthplace of D H Lawrence crucial in finding the best way in and out of Nottingham

The Service area motel is on the M1 going North and as with all service area and Travel Lodge accommodations beside major roadways there is a way across to the other side with is not open to the general public but which can also be used by emergency service vehicles as well as motorway staff in addition to Motel guests. It is important to have a good sense of direction using these cross over points because they are usually just unlit small country lanes.

To get to Mansfield and across to Southwell and Newark the best route is to continue up to the next major junction. However the important discovery was to also go north for about a mile until reaching the A610 which takes one towards Eastwood in Derbyshire or into Nottingham where it is under three miles to the Forest Park and Ride. There are two other Park and Ride stations before then, Phoenix is the stop to which three out of four trams stop and then return back to the Station road, adjacent the main line station in the city. There is a further stop to Hucknall a community where Byron is buried and where there is a cinema exhibition about his life and the centre of international festivals about his life and work. I have not visited Phoenix although I may do so on Friday or Saturday if the match continues into a fourth day. I did visit Wilkinson Street unintentionally when I could not find the Forest. To explain why I have to record that until discovering the 610 route, I would cross over to the going south route on the motorway travel to the next junction a distance of several miles maybe four to five and go on to the Nottingham Road at section which has been renamed the Brian Clough Way as Brian brought footballing success to both Derby first and then Notts Forest and where his son is the present manager at Derby and only in the last year or so a statue of Brian unveiled in the city centre of Nottingham.

From this junction it is at least five miles before reaching the Nottingham ring road where in the past I have either crossed and continue into the city to railway station and continue to the Bridge over the River Trent hence Trent Bridge, along which is the Trent Bridge Cricket ground and a short distance away from the Nottingham Forest Football club. Nottingham has a second football club as does Sheffield United and the City. Here I parked among the large private houses and multi occupational dwellings often used by students at the universities in West Bridgeford. I have also used the ring road which coaches and travellers from the north are encouraged to use and which come to the two grounds from the west and where there is also a park and ride scheme. From here there is a fast bus into the city but the geography of the park and ride, the river Trent and the two grounds means that one has in effect to go into the city getting off at the station in order to get a bus back to the grounds.

It is possible to reach the Forest Park and Ride from the Derby road which has to be continued on reaching the ring road but after continuing for between a mile and two it is necessary to take a sharp left at traffic lights where there are no signs to point the way. This brings one into Lenton Boulevard and then onto a second Boulevard. These are tree lines road forming a canopy across the road in one instance but they are as far removed from the boulevards of Paris as one can get, and for part along this way the environment is distinctly grotty, in decline and a Mecca for the social and economic underclass of the city. Having now used Park and Ride several times I can report it is very successful and used by those relying exclusively on public transport as well by those bringing cars into the city.

The approach is one of saturation coverage so that if one takes the area between the Old Market Place and Trent Bridge there are about 12 twelve buses which stop at three different places close to the ground- The Radcliffe Road end which is the first main road turning along the ground where ones comes to after crossing the Trent Bridge and there are places to eat from a greasy spoon cafĂ©, a fish and chip takeaway, and two trendy bar restaurants, one which I tried early evening only to find that the restaurant tables were being cleared for the evening to enable a Salsa class to take place. The bar had all the ingredients for trying to maintain trade. It functions as a sports bar which will be popular on days when the football club has home games or those wanting to drink outside the cricket club at lunch or before going home in the evening. The Salsa class and the layout is designed to attract the students and young people living in the area. It is also somewhere for lunch with a limited menu. It is located in the area of two large county hall buildings, one inside the cricket ground and the other serving the wide area around Nottingham on this side of the city. The city has its own service buildings and the county contributes towards the cost of running the Metro system which means that county residents with concessions can use the system for free whereas I had to pay £2.70 for an unlimited day ticket, £1.50 per single journey, the same price as adults. For an extra 30 pence there is unlimited travel on buses within the city but I have the national bus pass which saved the few pence a day.

As I was saying when I diverted myself there are three green line stops by the ground. The second is a stop on the next main road parallel to the Radcliffe Road where the stop is by the William Clark Stand. Here because of the new main stand along Radcliffe Road. There is the loss of several hundred seats in the corner as the new stand obscures a major part of the playing surface view.

There is also a third stop continuing along the road from the Bridge. The buses then continue to some different destinations. Between the Old Market Square area where some have stops and Trent Bridge, they all take different routes around the city although they all pass the main station at one point or go close to the Old Lace market and the entertainment zone comprising two adjacent theatres and cinema complex with a dozen main brand restaurants. There is a poorer housing estate between the Station, the Canal, the river and the sports grounds which green line buses appear to traverse street by street. Some of the Green line buses are signed from A place to B place while others offer Loops and therefore one has to look at the side for where the main stopping points are listed. There are four of five different colour systems for the routes into and through the city plus a system of fast buses and special buses for special events such as the Robin Hood festival or the recent 20 20 Cricket World Cup.

I acquired the information over the first three days of the cricket and from a morning and afternoon getting the geography fixed in my head. I did not find the Forest Park and Ride at Ride at the first attempt continuing on the A 52 Derby road into the city until realising I had missed the turn north and not knowing which one to take. I had then gone back to the ring road and followed the Park and Ride sign to the Wilkinson Street Park and Ride and then followed the tram lines to find the Forest which is close by. I have been to the Forest space several years before, two decades at least where the Nottingham Ice Skaters Torvil and Dean had performed their winning Olympic Ice Dance routine in a specially created large Marquee. They have been seen first at the Wembley arena in North London and then had made the day return trip for the Nottingham show. Now there is an International Ice centre in the city where World class events can be held. Nowadays though most of the city arenas can be converted for ice shows and ice hockey as well as basketball and major performance area shows such as the age of dinosaurs.

I took the tram into the city on that first morning to the terminus and where it is necessary to go down a life and take a short walk to the main road alongside the main station to catch a bus to Trent Bridge. It was after taking the bus back into the city centre that I realised it was better to get off the tram at Old Market Square and catch green line from there. I had there walk about the city centre realising that it is a large city but without appearing to have a defining city centre character. It a functional city rather than a historical one. Next to the older theatre there is a new concert hall where rather than music music such as the Sage in Newcastle there was a performance of the music show Chicago this week which also suggested that the city’s theatre was not big enough to take the internationally designed music and dance shows, including operas. I had already been on the Cineworld complex across the road the previous year for the live opera relay of Madam Butterfly from the New York Metropolitan. I had not been impressed by the quality of the food served at the Bella Pasta which has an entrance within the complex. There is also eat as much as you want East West restaurant offering £5.50 buffet style dishes during the day to early evening and then the same as significantly higher price in the evenings. The problem with these appetizing places is that one is inclined to gorge oneself faced with a choice of 100 dishes. Moreover there must be concern about the fact that the food is cooked at best early morning and then kept warm through hot place until consumed with I suggest could be several days in some instances. But they are very popular and reasonably price. Out side all around this area there are the brand restaurants. They all offer the same atmosphere served by young people with little commitment to the food but competitive over winning customer support for large tips and at basic prices which is not justified by the actual food. On my walkabout I did find a few 2 for 1 price pubs or those offering a small range of reasonably price meals where the food was as good if not better for half the price. There was also a Pizza restaurant where from four pm one could get a pizza pasta for about £4. I did find a French restaurant which did appear to serve authentic food and offered a two course pre theatre meal at a reasonable price. Talking of food, later in the evening I had enjoyed a chicken and bacon salad with a baguette after returning to the motel to change my shirt having spilt coffee.

I concluded that the city centre has a prosperous feel and there are several major residential areas. The development of two universities, Nottingham and Trent has had major impact on the city as it has on all cities in he United Kingdom. There are also areas of decline with boarded up shops, former industrial and commercial premises and individuals struggling. Nottinghamshire along with Derbyshire were coalmining counties who rebelled against the Communist Arthur Scargill miner’s leader and formed a new union of democratic miners in the mid 1980s for which miners in other areas , the North East, Wales and Scotland have never forgiven. Local post war politics has been dominated by the Labour Party and Trade unionism until the last decade when the Tory party has become powerful again in the Local government. You get this sense of the marrying of two cultures throughout the city.

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