1091 Travels in Holland

Sister Sophie on US Remembrance week reminded of the poem In Flanders Fields the poppies grow and it was my intention to write of my experience visiting Flanders and seeing the trenches and the acres of crosses. But instead of the notebook of that experience I came across one covering two visits to Holland twenty years ago. Before opening to view the notes and the collection of picture cards, receipts and other mementoes, I tried to recall images which had impact beyond the of the visits in 1985 and 1986. Having then read the notes and looked at the items I am struck by the division between a factual chronicle, a detailed financial record and a jumble of images and emotions of varying significance

The journey south was planned for just a day without a stop over to Harwich for the overnight ferry but where boarding and departure was delayed because of a comprehensive check to ensure that no explosives were taken on aboard. Today we have become conscious of the threat of a terrorist attack after one major incident in the US, one minor, in the UK and one which went wrong and we are in the process of introducing controls on the civilian population which I am not sure will be effective in relation to terrorism but may help in the fight against other forms of crime. It is hoped that someone somewhere has worked out all the positive and negative consequences, and the judgement of necessity has been applied rather than speculative optimism.

I cannot remember being concerned about the check and delay at the time, but being impressed by the thinking that the ferry must be similar to that of a cruiser liner in the number of decks and onboard facilities which included a night club two fifty seat cinemas, a casino and several restaurants. The vessel had just come into service and was the Princess Beatrix Koningin Beatrix with a First Class Boarding pass 004277.

The venture had been arranged in 1985 after my first visits to The Hague and Amsterdam for a conference about the role of Local Authorities and prevention and help in the misuse of substances. I had become familiar with the UK holiday provider of self catering lodges Hoseasons and a family package for four was arranged which included one week at the water and outdoor sports resort of Zeewolde holiday village of the shores of Lake Veluwe 45 mins from Amsterdam in the area of Flevoland, First class travel accommodation and insurances for a total of £391, with Green card £12 and car light beam converters £2, plus £200 travellers cheques and £200 cash. I took an additional leave of half a day on May 15th in order to make a trial pack of the card boot with four cases, overnight bags, some extra self catering items and coats. There was last minute concern about the amount of cash so another £50 was withdrawn from the bank.

There was lunch at an A19 Little Chef for £14.58. A Happy Eater tea stop for £3 where a children's party was in progress. Additional Petrol £15.55. Despite the later hour of boarding a fixed price self service restaurant was selected with a choice of fish, curries, sausages, chips, cold meats and salads at rate of 80g which I worked out was around £22 with American Express. It was not until 11.30 pm that we left port and then made way to the accommodation on the eighth level. I did not sleep much on the overnight crossing. I hate airless confined spaces despite the first class nature of the accommodation. I wonder where that comes from. The womb? The confined spaces of childhood? Prison cell? I was struck by the height of the vessel in proportion to its length. I made a brief tour of the vessel but did not venture to the nightclub or casino. (Note vehicle was the Austin Monetgo C434 OBB)

Anyway we arrived at 7.15 am local time and after disembarking travelled to the city of Utrech and the railway station where a breakfast of coffee with cream oozing chocolate éclairs was the breakfast at the Big Ben Bar, in the colourful shopping complex full of bright oranges, yellows, greens and reds. The old town was then explored, and this included a trip to the top of bell tower of the Cathedral using an external 100 meter vertical lift. I have a Street Map of Utrecht but cannot find the Map of Holland.

After a leisurely lunch there is a leisurely drive to our place of stay arriving at 4pm. This is a comparatively small site, one of several making use of what appears to be a major and popular outdoor sports area. There is a swimming pool and recreation hall which doubles as a cinema, a restaurant bar and a take away, a few shops and a washing clothes facility. The lodge is adequate with accommodation for six with three bedroom areas, one in the roof one downstairs and with bunk beds. By the time of unpacking, a shop and an evening meal Dutch television is discovered where you have a multi channel on screen choice, you can watch about a dozen stations in small screens and then select a main choice. There are English American films dubbed such as Dallas in German and Kojack in Dutch. What I cannot remember is how much of the trip was pre-planned and how much was governed by nightly consideration, the weather condition and mood. The visit to Utrech had led to a decision to return to the city. There was to be one visit to the internationally famous gardens, to cheese making, to windmills and a tour of canal land and to Amsterdam. Hoseasons and provide a help book on their holidays abroad with information on motoring in Holland and a separate booklet on Holland where certain things to see had been noted but were not in the event visited.

Zeewolde provided their own English welcome guide which explained that across the dam there was a beach for sun bathing, swimming, windsurfing and sailing, while there was many walking and cycling tracks through a young forest and surrounding areas with the gigantic windmill the homing beacon. There were 73 chalet bungalows and 14 apartments and after a description of the on site facilities there was information on medical services, police and fire brigade, dentist, bank, post office, mail and messages, telephones church services. Garage service station, sports facilities, parking and traffic rules, currency, markets, departure arrangements and a site map. There was also an events programme in Dutch although it was possible to work out Disco and Rambo First Blood Part 2 and also the opening times and happy hour for the Café Bar, Keuken (Take Away), Snackbar, and Crossanterie.

The decision was taken for a relaxed Sunday morning after two days of travelling and Sunday lunch at the lodge. I had spent a few hours in Amsterdam the previous year having taken luggage to the airport after a conference at The Hague, and then taken the train back to the city where an excellent lunch with wine was taken at hotel near the station, the Hotel De Bijenkorf Prins Hendrikkade. My companions were my employers and therefore although hesitant I guided them through mid afternoon Red light district as requested before finding somewhere for tea, seeing a little more of the city and returning to the airport for the KLM flight home.

That Sunday afternoon the Red Light district was avoided and the main purpose of the visit was a 75 tour of the canals and harbour which included references to the smallest house and boat. The sun shone brightly through the glass roof of the boat and I have an on board photo, long since forgotten but very good and will be scanned into my personal collection. There was high tea at Kentucky Fried Chicken and then a return to the Lodge for an evening of Dutch TV.

Monday my first explore to Edam and the touristy folksy village of Volendam where locals adorn traditional costumes of tourists. After this it is the windmill villages at Zandik where a clog maker is at work. I have a set of clogs in the upstairs work room.

Tuesday was a prior planned day between the Kierhenhoff Internationally recognised flower gardens with glorious fields of tulips and the Maurendam model village and the day ends at the harbour waterfront of Schenvenigan with a supper of chips at a 24 hour café.

Wednesday was a relaxed day on site, although I did some jogging and watch general election results which I assume were those for Holland. Thursday was divided between Utrect for a second visit to the tower. Some shopping, a leisurely meals, and then a train ride was arranged, while I took the car. Despite rain Thursday morning was a visit to Aalkamar cheese sale which appears organised for tourists and the antique shops which were of greater interest. After lunch a long grand tour along flat Dykeland from Den Dever Waddenzeet, Fzluitdike, and Breezeeanddike to Lorentzesluizen

The following day there was an exceptionally early start to catch the day ferry where the day was enjoyed drinking lots of coffee and soft dinks with packed lunches. And watching the Jewel of the Nile and Back to the Future. There was an overnight stop at Cambridge stopping at the Post House. In the morning the decision was take to enjoy a Little Chef breakfast rather than that offered at the Hotel and then completed the rest of the journey home to watch Sports Aid.

The most memorable experience was going to a local chemist for toothpaste or some such commonplace item and finding that the young girl behind the counter who was thrilled to be able to practice her fluent school learnt English for the first time, so I stayed for several minutes recounting the week's experiences. During the conference at The Hague the previous year I had opportunity to speak to several English speaking Dutch people which confirmed the impression of a serious, religious, moral older generation who remembered the occupation of their country and its liberation wrestling with their younger generation who already regarded the war as history.